Finding Nigerian ingredients in Calgary
What to look for, what the labels mean, what is worth importing and what you can substitute without ruining the pot.
Most of the confusion in Nigerian food is vocabulary, not technique. Learn thirty words and the whole menu opens up.
Nigerian cooking is not technically difficult to understand. It is just that the words are unfamiliar, and a menu written in them looks impenetrable until somebody translates about thirty of them for you.
Nigeria has over five hundred languages. Most food words on a menu here come from Igbo, Yoruba or Hausa, and many dishes carry two or three names depending on who is cooking. Where that matters, it is noted.
Soup. Every Igbo soup name starts with it: Ofe Owerri, Ofe Egusi, Ofe Onugbu, Ofe Nsala.
The Yoruba equivalent. Obe ata is pepper stew.
The soft starchy dough eaten with soup. Pinch, dip, swallow without chewing. Covers pounded yam, fufu, eba, semovita, amala and others.
The stretch in okra and ogbono soup when you lift a spoon. A compliment. A soup that "draws well" is doing its job.
Mixed offal and cuts in one pot, usually shaki, ponmo and beef. "Assorted meat" on a menu means variety, not leftovers.
Party finger food: puff puff, samosa, spring roll, peppered meat, chin chin. Served standing up, before the real food.
Boiled yam pounded to a smooth, dense, slightly sweet dough. The most prestigious swallow.
Fermented cassava. Soft, stretchy, distinctly sour. Akpu is the Igbo name.
Garri — dried, granulated cassava — stirred into hot water. Firmer and grainier than the others, mildly sour, and the everyday staple.
Semolina wheat. The mildest and lightest swallow, and the easiest starting point.
Yam flour or cassava flour, dark brown to near black. Yoruba, usually eaten with ewedu and gbegiri.
Ground melon seed. Thickens and enriches, with a nutty flavour. Fried in palm oil until it clumps, which is the step that makes the dish.
Ground wild mango seed. The classic drawing thickener.
Boiled and pounded to thicken Ofe Owerri, bitterleaf and oha soups. Gives body without slime.
Powdered thickeners used when cocoyam is not available. Quicker, less prized.
Fermented oil bean or melon seed paste. Extremely pungent on its own, and essential to the deep savoury back note of Igbo soups. A little goes a long way.
Fermented locust bean, the Yoruba and Hausa counterpart to ogiri. Central to efo riro and ayamase.
Dried, ground shrimp rather than crayfish in the European sense. Used as a seasoning in almost every soup.
The Hausa spice rub for suya: ground peanut, ginger, chilli, onion powder and more. What makes suya taste like suya.
Unrefined red palm oil. Deep orange, distinctly flavoured, and structural rather than incidental. Not interchangeable with palm kernel oil or vegetable oil.
Fluted pumpkin leaf. Soft, mild, faintly sweet. The workhorse green.
A tough forest vine leaf, shredded to threads before cooking. Central to Ofe Owerri and afang soup.
Peppery leaf with a distinct warm bite, used in small amounts. The seeds are used as a spice too.
Bitter, aromatic leaf, sliced very thin. Used in nkwobi and isi ewu.
Washed repeatedly to remove most of the bitterness before cooking.
Torn by hand rather than cut, because a knife is said to blacken it.
Soft and quick-cooking, used with afang to balance its toughness.
Closely related to basil. Goes into pepper soup at the very end.
Cow skin, cooked until gelatinous and soft. Texture rather than flavour, and much loved for it.
Tripe. Needs long cooking, ends up pleasantly chewy.
Air-dried cod, usually imported from Norway. Rehydrated and simmered. Expensive and irreplaceable.
Dried or smoked fish, softer than stockfish.
Goat head, prepared in a spiced palm oil sauce. A delicacy and a statement dish.
Cow foot in the same style of spiced palm oil sauce, with utazi and onion. An evening dish, eaten with a cold drink.
Thin beef, yaji-rubbed and grilled. Hausa in origin and now eaten everywhere.
Peppered goat, smoked then tossed in hot pepper sauce.
Rice cooked in a tomato and pepper base until it catches at the bottom of the pot. The smoke from that catching is the whole point. Subject of a permanent and unresolvable argument with Ghana.
Short-grain local Nigerian rice with a distinct earthy aroma, served with ayamase.
Green pepper stew with locust bean and assorted meat, cooked in a lot of bleached palm oil.
Fried ripe plantain. Sweet, soft-centred, caramelised at the edges.
Steamed bean pudding, made from peeled blended black-eyed beans with peppers and onions.
The same bean batter, deep fried into balls. A breakfast food.
Crunchy fried dough cubes, lightly sweet and nutmeg-scented.
Sweet yeasted dough balls, deep fried. The Nigerian doughnut.
Chilled hibiscus drink with ginger and pineapple. Tart and spiced.
A non-alcoholic cocktail of Fanta, Sprite, grenadine, bitters and cucumber. A Lagos invention.
Millet or sorghum drink, lightly spiced, from the north.
Sap tapped from palm trees, fermenting from the moment it is collected. Sweet in the morning, sharp by evening.
Thank you.
How are you? The standard greeting.
Matching fabric worn by a family or group at a celebration.
A big, loud, well-catered party. The kind we cook for.
Now the menu makes sense Every dish on our menu carries its Igbo name alongside the English one, so you can practise.
Read the menuIf we have missed a word you have run into, tell us and we will add it.
What to look for, what the labels mean, what is worth importing and what you can substitute without ruining the pot.
Why egusi has to clump, why ogbono goes into oil not water, why you never stir the jollof, and nine other things nobody writes down because everyone assumes you know.